Breaking Wave given wave height at Breaking Point Calculator

✖Beach slope refers to the incline or gradient of the shoreline, determining the rate at which the beach elevation changes horizontally with distance from the water.ⓘ Beach Slope [β]			+10% -10%
✖The Wave Height for Surface Gravity Waves refers to the vertical distance between the trough (bottom) and crest (top) of a wave, measured from sea level.ⓘ Wave Height for Surface Gravity Waves [H_w]			+10% -10%
✖Deep-Water Wavelength is the wavelength of a wave when the water depth is greater than half of its wavelength.ⓘ Deep-Water Wavelength [λ_o]			+10% -10%

✖Breaking Wave or breaker is a wave whose amplitude reaches a critical level at which some process can suddenly start to occur.ⓘ Breaking Wave given wave height at Breaking Point [ξ]

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Formula

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Breaking Wave given wave height at Breaking Point

Formula

`"ξ" = "β"/sqrt("H"_{"w"}/"λ"_{"o"})`

Example

`"0.229129"="0.15rad"/sqrt("3m"/"7m")`

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Breaking Wave given wave height at Breaking Point Solution

STEP 0: Pre-Calculation Summary

Formula Used

Breaking Wave = Beach Slope/sqrt(Wave Height for Surface Gravity Waves/Deep-Water Wavelength)
ξ = β/sqrt(H_w/λ_o)
This formula uses 1 Functions, 4 Variables

Functions Used

sqrt - A square root function is a function that takes a non-negative number as an input and returns the square root of the given input number., sqrt(Number)

Variables Used

Breaking Wave - Breaking Wave or breaker is a wave whose amplitude reaches a critical level at which some process can suddenly start to occur.
Beach Slope - (Measured in Radian) - Beach slope refers to the incline or gradient of the shoreline, determining the rate at which the beach elevation changes horizontally with distance from the water.
Wave Height for Surface Gravity Waves - (Measured in Meter) - The Wave Height for Surface Gravity Waves refers to the vertical distance between the trough (bottom) and crest (top) of a wave, measured from sea level.
Deep-Water Wavelength - (Measured in Meter) - Deep-Water Wavelength is the wavelength of a wave when the water depth is greater than half of its wavelength.

STEP 1: Convert Input(s) to Base Unit

Beach Slope: 0.15 Radian --> 0.15 Radian No Conversion Required
Wave Height for Surface Gravity Waves: 3 Meter --> 3 Meter No Conversion Required
Deep-Water Wavelength: 7 Meter --> 7 Meter No Conversion Required

STEP 2: Evaluate Formula

Substituting Input Values in Formula

ξ = β/sqrt(H_w/λ_o) --> 0.15/sqrt(3/7)

Evaluating ... ...

ξ = 0.229128784747792

STEP 3: Convert Result to Output's Unit

0.229128784747792 --> No Conversion Required

FINAL ANSWER

0.229128784747792 ≈ 0.229129 <-- Breaking Wave

(Calculation completed in 00.004 seconds)

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Home » Engineering » Civil » Coastal and Ocean Engineering » Surface Gravity Waves » Shoaling, Refraction and Breaking » Breaking Wave given wave height at Breaking Point

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Created by Mithila Muthamma PA

Coorg Institute of Technology (CIT), Coorg

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< 16 Shoaling, Refraction and Breaking Calculators

Shoaling Coefficient

Go Shoaling Coefficient = (tanh(Wave Number for Water Wave*Coastal Mean Depth)*(1+(2*Wave Number for Water Wave*Coastal Mean Depth/sinh(2*Wave Number for Water Wave*Coastal Mean Depth))))^-0.5

Shoaling Coefficient given Wave Celerity

Go Shoaling Coefficient = sqrt(Deepwater Wave Celerity/(Celerity of the Wave*2*Ratio of Group Velocity to Phase Velocity))

Beach Slope given Breaking Wave and Wave Height at Breaking Point

Go Beach Slope = Breaking Wave*sqrt(Wave Height for Surface Gravity Waves/Deep-Water Wavelength)

Breaking Wave given wave height at Breaking Point

Go Breaking Wave = Beach Slope/sqrt(Wave Height for Surface Gravity Waves/Deep-Water Wavelength)

Deepwater Wave Height for Shoaling Coefficient and Refraction Coefficient

Go Wave Height in Deepwater = Wave Height for Surface Gravity Waves/(Shoaling Coefficient*Refraction Coefficient)

Refraction Coefficient given Relative Change of Wave Height

Go Refraction Coefficient = Wave Height for Surface Gravity Waves/(Wave Height in Deepwater*Shoaling Coefficient)

Wave Height given Shoaling Coefficient and Refraction Coefficient

Go Wave Height for Surface Gravity Waves = Wave Height in Deepwater*Shoaling Coefficient*Refraction Coefficient

Refraction Coefficient

Go Refraction Coefficient = sqrt(Distance Between Two Rays at Deepwater/Distance Between Two Rays)

Wave Height at Breaking Point given Breaking Wave and Wave Height at Breaking Point

Go Wave Height for Surface Gravity Waves = (Deep-Water Wavelength*Beach Slope^2)/Breaking Wave^2

Deepwater Wavelength given Wave Breaking and Wave Height at Breaking Point

Go Deep-Water Wavelength = (Breaking Wave^2*Wave Height for Surface Gravity Waves)/Beach Slope^2

Distance between Two Rays at General Point

Go Distance Between Two Rays = Distance Between Two Rays at Deepwater/Refraction Coefficient^2

Shoaling Coefficient in Shallow Water

Go Shoaling Coefficient = 0.4466*(Deep-Water Wavelength/Water Depth in Ocean)^(1/4)

Water Depth when Reduced Shoaling Coefficient in shallow Water

Go Water Depth in Ocean = Deep-Water Wavelength/(Shoaling Coefficient/0.2821)^2

Deepwater Wavelength for Shoaling Coefficient in Shallow Water

Go Deep-Water Wavelength = (Shoaling Coefficient/0.4466)^4*Water Depth in Ocean

Wave Length for Reduced Shoaling Coefficient in Shallow Water

Go Deep-Water Wavelength = Water Depth in Ocean*(Shoaling Coefficient/0.2821)^2

Water Depth given Shoaling Coefficient in Shallow Water

Go Water Depth in Ocean = Deep-Water Wavelength/(Shoaling Coefficient/0.4466)^4

Breaking Wave given wave height at Breaking Point Formula

Breaking Wave = Beach Slope/sqrt(Wave Height for Surface Gravity Waves/Deep-Water Wavelength)
ξ = β/sqrt(H_w/λ_o)

What does a Steep Beach Profile Mean?

Shingle Beaches typically have a steep gradient (over 10˚) because the waves easily flow through the coarse, porous surface of the beach, decreasing the effect of backwash erosion and increasing the formation of sediment into a steep sloping back.

How to Calculate Breaking Wave given wave height at Breaking Point?

Breaking Wave given wave height at Breaking Point calculator uses Breaking Wave = Beach Slope/sqrt(Wave Height for Surface Gravity Waves/Deep-Water Wavelength) to calculate the Breaking Wave, The Breaking Wave given wave height at Breaking Point is defined as the wave whose amplitude reaches critical level at which some process can suddenly start to occur that causes large amounts of wave energy to be transformed into turbulent kinetic energy. Breaking Wave is denoted by ξ symbol.

How to calculate Breaking Wave given wave height at Breaking Point using this online calculator? To use this online calculator for Breaking Wave given wave height at Breaking Point, enter Beach Slope (β), Wave Height for Surface Gravity Waves (H_w) & Deep-Water Wavelength (λ_o) and hit the calculate button. Here is how the Breaking Wave given wave height at Breaking Point calculation can be explained with given input values -> 0.229129 = 0.15/sqrt(3/7).

FAQ

What is Breaking Wave given wave height at Breaking Point?

The Breaking Wave given wave height at Breaking Point is defined as the wave whose amplitude reaches critical level at which some process can suddenly start to occur that causes large amounts of wave energy to be transformed into turbulent kinetic energy and is represented as ξ = β/sqrt(H_w/λ_o) or Breaking Wave = Beach Slope/sqrt(Wave Height for Surface Gravity Waves/Deep-Water Wavelength). Beach slope refers to the incline or gradient of the shoreline, determining the rate at which the beach elevation changes horizontally with distance from the water, The Wave Height for Surface Gravity Waves refers to the vertical distance between the trough (bottom) and crest (top) of a wave, measured from sea level & Deep-Water Wavelength is the wavelength of a wave when the water depth is greater than half of its wavelength.

How to calculate Breaking Wave given wave height at Breaking Point?

The Breaking Wave given wave height at Breaking Point is defined as the wave whose amplitude reaches critical level at which some process can suddenly start to occur that causes large amounts of wave energy to be transformed into turbulent kinetic energy is calculated using Breaking Wave = Beach Slope/sqrt(Wave Height for Surface Gravity Waves/Deep-Water Wavelength). To calculate Breaking Wave given wave height at Breaking Point, you need Beach Slope (β), Wave Height for Surface Gravity Waves (H_w) & Deep-Water Wavelength (λ_o). With our tool, you need to enter the respective value for Beach Slope, Wave Height for Surface Gravity Waves & Deep-Water Wavelength and hit the calculate button. You can also select the units (if any) for Input(s) and the Output as well.

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