Wave Height at Breaking Point given Breaking Wave and Wave Height at Breaking Point Calculator

✖Deep-Water Wavelength is the wavelength of a wave when the water depth is greater than half of its wavelength.ⓘ Deep-Water Wavelength [λ_o]			+10% -10%
✖Beach slope refers to the incline or gradient of the shoreline, determining the rate at which the beach elevation changes horizontally with distance from the water.ⓘ Beach Slope [β]			+10% -10%
✖Breaking Wave or breaker is a wave whose amplitude reaches a critical level at which some process can suddenly start to occur.ⓘ Breaking Wave [ξ]			+10% -10%

✖The Wave Height for Surface Gravity Waves refers to the vertical distance between the trough (bottom) and crest (top) of a wave, measured from sea level.ⓘ Wave Height at Breaking Point given Breaking Wave and Wave Height at Breaking Point [H_w]

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Formula

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Wave Height at Breaking Point given Breaking Wave and Wave Height at Breaking Point

Formula

`"H"_{"w"} = ("λ"_{"o"}*"β"^2)/"ξ"^2`

Example

`"3.003375m"=("7m"*("0.15rad")^2)/("0.229")^2`

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Wave Height at Breaking Point given Breaking Wave and Wave Height at Breaking Point Solution

STEP 0: Pre-Calculation Summary

Formula Used

Wave Height for Surface Gravity Waves = (Deep-Water Wavelength*Beach Slope^2)/Breaking Wave^2
H_w = (λ_o*β^2)/ξ^2
This formula uses 4 Variables

Variables Used

Wave Height for Surface Gravity Waves - (Measured in Meter) - The Wave Height for Surface Gravity Waves refers to the vertical distance between the trough (bottom) and crest (top) of a wave, measured from sea level.
Deep-Water Wavelength - (Measured in Meter) - Deep-Water Wavelength is the wavelength of a wave when the water depth is greater than half of its wavelength.
Beach Slope - (Measured in Radian) - Beach slope refers to the incline or gradient of the shoreline, determining the rate at which the beach elevation changes horizontally with distance from the water.
Breaking Wave - Breaking Wave or breaker is a wave whose amplitude reaches a critical level at which some process can suddenly start to occur.

STEP 1: Convert Input(s) to Base Unit

Deep-Water Wavelength: 7 Meter --> 7 Meter No Conversion Required
Beach Slope: 0.15 Radian --> 0.15 Radian No Conversion Required
Breaking Wave: 0.229 --> No Conversion Required

STEP 2: Evaluate Formula

Substituting Input Values in Formula

H_w = (λ_o*β^2)/ξ^2 --> (7*0.15^2)/0.229^2

Evaluating ... ...

H_w = 3.00337522167769

STEP 3: Convert Result to Output's Unit

3.00337522167769 Meter --> No Conversion Required

FINAL ANSWER

3.00337522167769 ≈ 3.003375 Meter <-- Wave Height for Surface Gravity Waves

(Calculation completed in 00.004 seconds)

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Home » Engineering » Civil » Coastal and Ocean Engineering » Surface Gravity Waves » Shoaling, Refraction and Breaking » Wave Height at Breaking Point given Breaking Wave and Wave Height at Breaking Point

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Created by Mithila Muthamma PA

Coorg Institute of Technology (CIT), Coorg

Mithila Muthamma PA has created this Calculator and 2000+ more calculators!

Verified by M Naveen

National Institute of Technology (NIT), Warangal

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< 16 Shoaling, Refraction and Breaking Calculators

Shoaling Coefficient

Go Shoaling Coefficient = (tanh(Wave Number for Water Wave*Coastal Mean Depth)*(1+(2*Wave Number for Water Wave*Coastal Mean Depth/sinh(2*Wave Number for Water Wave*Coastal Mean Depth))))^-0.5

Shoaling Coefficient given Wave Celerity

Go Shoaling Coefficient = sqrt(Deepwater Wave Celerity/(Celerity of the Wave*2*Ratio of Group Velocity to Phase Velocity))

Beach Slope given Breaking Wave and Wave Height at Breaking Point

Go Beach Slope = Breaking Wave*sqrt(Wave Height for Surface Gravity Waves/Deep-Water Wavelength)

Breaking Wave given wave height at Breaking Point

Go Breaking Wave = Beach Slope/sqrt(Wave Height for Surface Gravity Waves/Deep-Water Wavelength)

Deepwater Wave Height for Shoaling Coefficient and Refraction Coefficient

Go Wave Height in Deepwater = Wave Height for Surface Gravity Waves/(Shoaling Coefficient*Refraction Coefficient)

Refraction Coefficient given Relative Change of Wave Height

Go Refraction Coefficient = Wave Height for Surface Gravity Waves/(Wave Height in Deepwater*Shoaling Coefficient)

Wave Height given Shoaling Coefficient and Refraction Coefficient

Go Wave Height for Surface Gravity Waves = Wave Height in Deepwater*Shoaling Coefficient*Refraction Coefficient

Refraction Coefficient

Go Refraction Coefficient = sqrt(Distance Between Two Rays at Deepwater/Distance Between Two Rays)

Wave Height at Breaking Point given Breaking Wave and Wave Height at Breaking Point

Go Wave Height for Surface Gravity Waves = (Deep-Water Wavelength*Beach Slope^2)/Breaking Wave^2

Deepwater Wavelength given Wave Breaking and Wave Height at Breaking Point

Go Deep-Water Wavelength = (Breaking Wave^2*Wave Height for Surface Gravity Waves)/Beach Slope^2

Distance between Two Rays at General Point

Go Distance Between Two Rays = Distance Between Two Rays at Deepwater/Refraction Coefficient^2

Shoaling Coefficient in Shallow Water

Go Shoaling Coefficient = 0.4466*(Deep-Water Wavelength/Water Depth in Ocean)^(1/4)

Water Depth when Reduced Shoaling Coefficient in shallow Water

Go Water Depth in Ocean = Deep-Water Wavelength/(Shoaling Coefficient/0.2821)^2

Deepwater Wavelength for Shoaling Coefficient in Shallow Water

Go Deep-Water Wavelength = (Shoaling Coefficient/0.4466)^4*Water Depth in Ocean

Wave Length for Reduced Shoaling Coefficient in Shallow Water

Go Deep-Water Wavelength = Water Depth in Ocean*(Shoaling Coefficient/0.2821)^2

Water Depth given Shoaling Coefficient in Shallow Water

Go Water Depth in Ocean = Deep-Water Wavelength/(Shoaling Coefficient/0.4466)^4

Wave Height at Breaking Point given Breaking Wave and Wave Height at Breaking Point Formula

Wave Height for Surface Gravity Waves = (Deep-Water Wavelength*Beach Slope^2)/Breaking Wave^2
H_w = (λ_o*β^2)/ξ^2

What is Breaking Wave?

In fluid dynamics, a breaking wave or breaker is a wave whose amplitude reaches a critical level at which some process can suddenly start to occur that causes large amounts of wave energy to be transformed into turbulent kinetic energy.

How to Calculate Wave Height at Breaking Point given Breaking Wave and Wave Height at Breaking Point?

Wave Height at Breaking Point given Breaking Wave and Wave Height at Breaking Point calculator uses Wave Height for Surface Gravity Waves = (Deep-Water Wavelength*Beach Slope^2)/Breaking Wave^2 to calculate the Wave Height for Surface Gravity Waves, The Wave Height at Breaking Point given Breaking Wave and Wave Height at Breaking Point is defined as the difference between elevations of crest and neighboring trough. Wave height is term used by mariners, as well as in coastal, ocean and naval engineering. Wave Height for Surface Gravity Waves is denoted by H_w symbol.

How to calculate Wave Height at Breaking Point given Breaking Wave and Wave Height at Breaking Point using this online calculator? To use this online calculator for Wave Height at Breaking Point given Breaking Wave and Wave Height at Breaking Point, enter Deep-Water Wavelength (λ_o), Beach Slope (β) & Breaking Wave (ξ) and hit the calculate button. Here is how the Wave Height at Breaking Point given Breaking Wave and Wave Height at Breaking Point calculation can be explained with given input values -> 3.9375 = (7*0.15^2)/0.229^2.

FAQ

What is Wave Height at Breaking Point given Breaking Wave and Wave Height at Breaking Point?

The Wave Height at Breaking Point given Breaking Wave and Wave Height at Breaking Point is defined as the difference between elevations of crest and neighboring trough. Wave height is term used by mariners, as well as in coastal, ocean and naval engineering and is represented as H_w = (λ_o*β^2)/ξ^2 or Wave Height for Surface Gravity Waves = (Deep-Water Wavelength*Beach Slope^2)/Breaking Wave^2. Deep-Water Wavelength is the wavelength of a wave when the water depth is greater than half of its wavelength, Beach slope refers to the incline or gradient of the shoreline, determining the rate at which the beach elevation changes horizontally with distance from the water & Breaking Wave or breaker is a wave whose amplitude reaches a critical level at which some process can suddenly start to occur.

How to calculate Wave Height at Breaking Point given Breaking Wave and Wave Height at Breaking Point?

The Wave Height at Breaking Point given Breaking Wave and Wave Height at Breaking Point is defined as the difference between elevations of crest and neighboring trough. Wave height is term used by mariners, as well as in coastal, ocean and naval engineering is calculated using Wave Height for Surface Gravity Waves = (Deep-Water Wavelength*Beach Slope^2)/Breaking Wave^2. To calculate Wave Height at Breaking Point given Breaking Wave and Wave Height at Breaking Point, you need Deep-Water Wavelength (λ_o), Beach Slope (β) & Breaking Wave (ξ). With our tool, you need to enter the respective value for Deep-Water Wavelength, Beach Slope & Breaking Wave and hit the calculate button. You can also select the units (if any) for Input(s) and the Output as well.

How many ways are there to calculate Wave Height for Surface Gravity Waves?

In this formula, Wave Height for Surface Gravity Waves uses Deep-Water Wavelength, Beach Slope & Breaking Wave. We can use 1 other way(s) to calculate the same, which is/are as follows -

Wave Height for Surface Gravity Waves = Wave Height in Deepwater*Shoaling Coefficient*Refraction Coefficient

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